|My Continuing Ed sewing class project: The Tailored Jacket|
|After trying on a prototype, we traced off our best size, and drew in details like darts and seam joins.|
Right off the bat, I stumbled. I was missing some of the pieces, because the gals tracing off Medium forgot to distribute some. Or maybe it was my fault, not expecting there to be a lining upper sleeve, say, and a different sleeve piece for our wool fabric. Other pattern pieces came with scanty markings such as notches and small holes. Having no previous experience in sewing jackets or pattern making, little dots and notches on the pattern meant nothing to me.
|Several students clamored for a visual key to our pattern, so our instructor drew one up.|
|Resources include instructor handouts, books from my library, and our textbook, upper left.|
|My muslin Fail: I mistakenly sewed the top collar to the under collar before sewing the latter to the front lapels, or revers.|
|Using hand stitches to give the collar, no matter how Wrong, nice shaping.|
|Desperate for some sort of visual, I asked for, and received, this line drawing.|
To get the welts to open up nicely, I used a tool from quilting, where perhaps I should stay? It's a tiny pointy iron that's great for pressing bindings, animal costumes, and other fiddly things. In one of the books that mentions nothing about the sewing order for a jacket muslin, I learned to take a little bundle of wool, tie it, and use it to daub your fabric with water when pressing in a tight space.
Before I tackle the third sample tonight, I will hand-sew little loops called "tailor's tacks" to mark everything onto the jacket fronts: all seam lines, pocket placements, dart lines, hemlines, and anything else that seems important. Then, if this third sample goes well, I'll be ready to SLASH into my jacket.
Although our class textbook is excellent (apart from telling you to "Make the muslin"), I splurged and bought a newer book, Vintage Couture Tailoring. After looking it over, our instructor, who has a real reverence for all things Tailoring, pronounced it very good -- although she pointed out where the author's tailor tacks go a little overboard.
|Tailor's tacks are time-consuming, but show essential marks on both sides of your fabric.|
Addendum: I must add that my teacher is excellent! In fact, a costumer for two top theaters (The Old Globe and the La Jolla Playhouse) plus the opera, is in our class, just to study with our instructor. She's accustomed to more experienced students, no doubt. As you can see, in garment sewing, give me maps and charts! Be well, and happy sewing.